DEAR DR. BLONZ: Are the natural flavors the same as what you would find in that actual food? For example, orange is one of my favorites; when a food labeled "all natural" says it is made with actual oranges but also lists "natural flavors" or "natural orange flavor" as an ingredient (I've seen both), is that referring to the oranges? -- M.R., Dover, Delaware
DEAR M.R.: Flavors come from collections of chemicals, whether made by nature or constructed in a lab. To copy the flavor from the naturally grown food for a processed food, flavor chemists identify nature's compounds at play. Precise, synthetic versions can be used to construct the desired flavor. The task, ironically, becomes more complex if the copy is to be a "natural" flavor. In that case, the compounds must come from natural sources such as fruits, vegetables, herbs, spices, meat, dairy or fermentation products, with no requirement that they come from the food whose flavor is being copied.
Why not use, or copy, the flavor substances in the actual food? While this seems preferable, it's impractical on any large scale. And, as flavors go, the natural ones are typically weaker when removed from their natural foods. Many are unstable and break down during processing, transport and storage. In addition, natural flavors may interact with other ingredients in a recipe, or even with the packaging material. There's also a question of uniformity. While fresh foods grown by nature can vary in flavor, processed foods must answer to a higher authority: the consumer. Biting into a less-sweet orange won't stop you from eating oranges, but an undesired taste in a processed food made with "natural orange flavor" might cross it off your shopping list for good. And, since opinions about taste vary, one company's version of a "natural" orange, or any other flavor, may taste nothing like another's.
Also consider that, from the plant's perspective, flavor is a short-term requirement, just long enough to get the fruit selected so its seeds can reach the soil. Energy is the most vital commodity; there is no need to invest more to keep flavors going when the energy priority is to fuel development until the plant can emerge, spread its leaves and begin getting energy from the sun on its own.
A good advertising campaign might persuade a consumer to try a product, but repeat business and ultimate success in the marketplace depend to a large extent on how it tastes. With today's demand and the level of expertise, we can no longer assume that a processed food product is more wholesome just because it uses natural flavors, or that it's inferior if the flavoring is artificial.
As for processed foods, always check the label to see what you are buying. While it may seem desirable to have "natural" or "nothing artificial" on the label, there's no automatic nutrition, taste or safety advantage that those with natural flavors hold over their synthetic counterparts. But, of course, we can avoid the flavoring issue altogether by sticking with fresh whole foods, which should be the main players in our diet.
Send questions to: "On Nutrition," Ed Blonz, c/o Andrews McMeel Syndication, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. Send email inquiries to questions@blonz.com. Due to the volume of mail, personal replies cannot be provided.